maandag 29 maart 2010

Tagliatelle with Black Garlic


I couldn't wait any longer- after yesterday's post about black garlic curiosity got the better of me, I had to try cooking the garlic. I decided to take an easy path and made a quick pasta. How I love pasta.
I cooked 300gr tagliatelle. Fried 250gr diced bacon, added 1 finely chopped onion, until it was just begining to brown. I added several mushrooms, 4 cloves of black garlic sliced, a few freeze dried Spanish pepers, a few chopped black olives, about 2 tsp capers and some sundried tomato (in oil). When the pasta was just cooked I added a little olive oil and about 150gr Philadelphia cheese (original), 25gr Gran padano salt and pepper and mixed thoroughly. I carefully put the two together.
I served it with a stir fry of Italian vegetables and a side salad. How I love my vegetables and salads.

Oh my, the garlic was divine, next time I won't be afraid to add more. The balance was good although I don't usually use so many ingredients in one dish. By omitting regular garlic I was afraid I wouldn't get the full taste! I didn't miss it at all and I certainly didn't miss smelly fingers!

zondag 28 maart 2010

Aged Black Garlic- The New Black


I love garlic and lots of it! So when I read an article in 'Exclusief' the monthly magazine of Sligro (number 2) I became very excited and intrigued- I knew I would have to try some- evidently I'm not the only one since I bought the very last packet! (the power of clever marketing?)
It certainly looks odd- light brown in colour and ‘papery’ with inky black cloves, actually not at all appealing to the eye, but don't let appearance put you off- black garlic is a big hit and is well on the way to becoming the latest trend.

The 'Sligro' garlic comes in sealed plastic packaging with a packet of Silica-gel. There are just two bulbs of 'Aged Black Garlic' or 36gr. The garlic was actually ‘invented' by Scott Kim and manufactured in Korea. It is distributed by Black Garlic inc. (Los Angeles) On the packaging is a chart showing the nutrition facts. 40calories per serving(18gr). It cost around 5euro.


But what exactly is black garlic?- No it isn't a newly discovered variety but simply regular garlic that has been fermented in a process using high levels of heat treatment and controlled humidity for roughly a period of 21 days.
Initially it was developed by Scott Kim to be marketed as yet another super food with its many positive health properties (It is extremely high in antioxidants/anti cancer) these are however, 'alleged' claims, I'm unsure if there is supporting medical evidence. But the product took a turn when it was picked up in America and has since become very popular in the culinary world especially in high-end restaurants and TV cooking programmes.
In England it became very sought after featuring in Something for the Weekend a BBC 2 TV programme.

What is so positive about black garlic?- well how about all the taste but none of the 'nasties'. What do you think of being able to eat cooked or even raw garlic with no heartburn or garlic breath!? (So if you are looking to ward off vampires- forget it!) Black garlic contains considerably more antioxidants (antioxidants absorb 'free radicals' which are unstable molecules which can cause cell and tissue damage) than regular garlic.
Regular garlic's health benefits and medicinal properties have long been known and have been clinically proven. It helps to protect against heart disease, lowers blood pressure / cholesterol and helps prevent blood clots forming. It's antibacterial/ antiviral properties also helps the body to fight off infections including colds and acne! Further test show that it may neutralise cancer-causing chemicals and thus reduce the risk of tumours. For those who dislike the taste/want to avoid 'garlic breath' but don't want to miss out on the therapeutic qualities, garlic has been available as a 'artificial' supplement in capsule form but now Black garlic could be the 'natural' answer.
Black or aged garlic as it is often referred to- is entirely natural, so no preservatives or added chemicals! No additives at all- you get pure garlic (so please disregard anything you hear suggesting Soy is used in the production) Just don't forget to discard the little packet of Silicagel!

The taste is sweet and subtle. Unique because it is sweet and savoury alike, the taste has been described as anything from tamarind, to balsamic vinegar, from licorice to dark soy sauce as well as figs and dates. It is said to resemble roasted garlic with earthy and even chocolate undertones.
I thought it tasted very much like appelstroop (apple syrup) and 'solid' balsamic vinegar although the structure is soft and mouth watering. It is mild but at the same time there is a depth of flavour. I couldn't help wonder if I would have even recognised ‘garlic’ if I hadn't known what I was sampling. For this reason I conducted a 'blind' tasting with a few friends. The reactions? (all positive) 'licorice?' 'plum?' and yes---- 'garlic?'

How can you use black garlic, can dishes calling for classic garlic be substituted? To a certain extent yes, but remember it is a more subtle flavour and black garlic has its own unique taste so you should experiment. It can be eaten raw or cooked. On the packaging the serving suggestions are Pizza, Pasta, Steak, Hotdog, Berger?? (Burger?) or Asian food! So everything American and Asian food- hmm…
A recipe suggestion in the Sligro magazine is baked banana. Mix chocolate with finely chopped black garlic, honey or sugar and rum and pour over a banana sliced lengthways. Bake in foil for 20 minutes in a pre-heated oven 180c.
I have even read that there is a chocolate variant available or being introduced soon! Can't wait!

For me it was love at first bite. I was charmed by it- but the rest of the family had mixed reactions.
While it's looks may not be top notch it certainly packs a punch! I feel it is an ingredient with lots of potential. I can't wait developing recipes incorporating 'Black Magic' Garlic. I'm thinking the obvious; in a salad, mushroom risotto or in pasta recipe here. Maybe with roast chicken, or perhaps just keep it simple- black garlic butter or Aioli but I'll also be trying it with chocolate and ice-cream!
While I don't think I'll be consuming the amount required for reaping the health benefits mainly due to its limited availability, I will be buying it regularly.
Does it have a future or will it be a flash in the pan? I do have a feeling it will be a stayer rather than a novelty. Apparentely there is a patent on the production technique/machine that fermentates the garlic, although it is beyond me how this production can be patented since it 'just' needs the right dose of heat and humidity- how difficult could that be?
I have no doubt it will shortly available at the major supermarkets.

dinsdag 23 maart 2010

Banoffee Pie with Dulce de Leche- scary stuff!


Ban(ana) +(T)offee + pie=
Banoffee Pie is an indulgent but simple, no cook British dessert made from bananas, cream, chocolate and *Dulce de Leche on a base of either pastry or cookie crumbs. It's just one of those flavour combinations that work like a dream.
This is something that I had been meaning to make for a long time. Although Banoffee has become a classic English dessert, *Dulce de leche originates from South America so quite possibly my recent holiday to Brazil stirred a desire in me to taste once again the rich sweet taste of Banoffee Pie.
* Dulce de leche is a toffee/caramel like substance make from heating (for 3 hours!) tinned sweetened condensed milk until it thickens and reaches a golden colour. This itself is a daunting task- they are many warnings about exploding tins :-(....but you should be ok as long as you adhere to certain rules.
So the weekend before last, I risked life, limb and my kitchen units in order to satisfy my craving.
How to make Dulce de Leche:
Place the unopened can(s) of condensed milk in a(n old) large saucepan and cover it completely with water. The advice is to use an old pan but I didn't and my pan was fine. It is an idea to boil more cans at one time as it does store well in the closed tin can or in a sealed (sterilised) container in the fridge- if you can leave it alone- it is very hard to resist just spooning it out of the jar! (You will regret it afterwards)

Bring the water to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer. Place the pan lid on and cook the can, turning every so often, (I set my alarm for 30minute intervals) topping up with water as necessary for 2 1/2 - 3 hours. CAUTION: It is vital that the cans remain completely covered. When the time is up drain rain off the water and allow the cans to cool.
Do not try to open until the can is completely cool so make well in advance. it will be lovely and thick. I used just one can but if you really want to be indulgent use 1 1/2 cans per pie.
In the meantime you can make the crust of choice. I used ginger cookies with cinnamon. It isn't necessary to add extra sugar due to the sweetness of the filling.
RECIPE 1
Banoffee Pie:
180gr ginger cookies (or any cookies like digestive)
85gr butter
heaped tsp cinnamon
1 tin (397 gr)condensed milk ( I used Friesche Vlag from AH)
banana's sliced (I used 5 small)
200ml cream, whipped
cocoa for dusting plus grated plain chocolate.
Spring form, lined with a piece of greaseproof paper
Bash the cookies in a clean bag with a rolling pin or pestle. Heat butter in small pan until just melted. Add crumbs and mix. Press in the base and slightly on the sides of a spring form (mine was 24cm) with a spoon. Cool in a refrigerator.
Whip cream. Now it is a matter of just putting it together, layer of toffee (it will be thick and difficult to spread but don't be tempted to add milk, I did but it doesn't hold its shape good)- banana and cream (or banana- toffee and cream) Cool, just before serving sprinkle lavishly with cacao and grated plain chocolate. Enjoy!

Banoffee Pie even has film star status: It features briefly in one of the all time classic films: Love Actually, in the the painstaking scene where Juliet suddenly realises the true nature of Marks feelings...watch the continuality flaws the box containing the pie changes position several times on the TV stand and even disappears! Here

RECIPE 2
I still had a can over- but no worries, it didn't hang around for long! I fancied something a little different. I love the combination of banana and toffee but wanted a slight change. As I am a confessed chocoholic it didn't take me long to decide what twist to take on the Banoffee Pie - a Choco-Banoffe. I added a layer of rich chocolate *ganache but to conteract the sweetness I decided to make a bitter cocoa pastry base. It gives the pie a rich dark colour.
* Ganache is a French term is an icing or filling for pastries and glazings made from chocolate and cream. It is normally made by heating heavy/double cream, then pouring it over chopped dark chocolate. Note if you use milk chocolate it will not set properly! It should cut like butter.
I adjusted the Jamie Oliver Simple Chocolate Tart by halving the ingredients for the filling. I used my own base.

This photo actually doen't do it any justice, it looks a bit runny, look here

Choco Banoffee:
Pastry:
300gr plain flour/ cocoa to taste (not more than 50gr cocoa 250gr flour)
2 heaped tsp sugar
pinch salt
150gr butter
1 egg, beaten
little water as necessary
24cm spring form/ flan tin, lined with greasproof paper.

Add salt to flour, sprinkle in sugar. Rub the butter in to the flour, add (beaten) egg and enough water (very little) to form a dough. Handle as little as possible. Refrigerate for about an hour, this will rest the dough, it will be easier to handle and is less likely to shrink. Prewarm oven 180c /350f / gas 4
Roll out large enough to line the tin (including sides) Ideally this should rest again- pop it into the fridge for 10 minutes if you have time.
Bake "blind". Place baking beans on greaseproof paper (if you don't have beans carefully prick the pastry case with a fork not piercing completely through the pastry) and cook for 15minutes, remove greaseproof paper/beans and allow to cook for about another 10minutes. It is a fairly thick pastry so needs longer than normal. Leave to cool.
Spread one can of Dulce de Luche on the flan. Add 3 sliced Banana's.

Ganache:
157ml cream
1 level tablespoon caster sugar
pinch of salt
57gr butter softened
227gr dark chocolate
50ml milk
cocoa powder for dusting

Place the cream, sugar and a pinch of salt in a pan and bring to a boil. As soon as the mixture has boiled, remove from the heat and add the butter and chocolate. Stir until it has completely melted. Allow the mixture to cool slightly, stirring in the cold milk until smooth and shiny. Sometimes this mixture looks like it has split. Allow it to cool down a bit more and whisk in a little extra cold milk until smooth. Scrape all the mixture into the pastry shell on top of the bananas. Shake the tart to even it out and allow it to cool. Dust with the cocoa powder.
If you really want to push the boat out serve with a dollop of cream. It won't be overly sweet due to the bitter pastry, it balances very well. I have wierd taste buds and added a drizzle of Crema di balsamico.

You could make lots of variations, what about serving as a dessert in individual glasses with a tart fruit (I'm thinking cranberries) on the bottom, then a layer of dulce de Leche and chocolate. Or a bottom layer of sponge soaked in brandy/ liqueur. Or add a topping of toasted and chopped hazelnuts. Or alternatively you could flavour the Dulce de leche with coffee.

So if YOU are looking for a bit of adventure in the kitchen, grab a couple of cans of condensed milk next time you are in your local supermarket and give it a go. You will be richly rewarded.

dinsdag 16 maart 2010

Kitchen Equipment


A food blog is nothing without pictures- on holiday in Brazil we had two camera's with us and both only just made it to the end of the holiday . My own camera has since given very poor quality photo's, somehow the setting were all over the place. It doesn't help that I am 'camera illiterate!' But I have given it a good clean, changed the settings, with the manual close at hand (in English- but it may has well been in Chinese) and now finger’s crossed I hope the problem is solved and I am back!
Tools of the trade.
How well is your kitchen equipped?
There is a saying that a good craftsman never blames his tools but is the same true in the kitchen? How important is the equipment and how important are the skills?
A bit of both perhaps- good and quality utensils won't necessary make a good cook out of you- and it is possible to create a culinary delight on a simple camp fire!. But good equipment help to make your life somewhat easier and will greatly assist you, whether you are working on a true masterpiece, making a simple omelet- or even opening a tin can!
To simplify things, a sharp knife is so much easier to work with, not to mention safer, than a blunt one! I believe quality and durability is very important as far as kitchenware goes (as it is regarding most other things) But equally important is of course the quality of the ingredients as well as some skill and knowledge- and practice does make perfect!
You need to 'know' your ingredients and you learn to use your 'tools'. Which explains how you may whip up a gourmet meal at home and struggle miserably in someone else’s kitchen.
I think my kitchen reflect my style fairly accurately - fusion cooking- a mix and match of different flavours. I make what pleases me, I don't stick to rules or recipes. I cook to feel. My equipment is equally diverse, from an old fashioned wooden citrus reamer / juicer to a Jamie Oliver flavour shaker and from a pestle and mortar to pasta machine.
As far as equipping your kitchen I would say go for quality, shop around and try to buy 'versatile' kitchenware.
As far as knives go- it is very much a personal thing. They must feel good in your hands. My favourite knife is not even an expensive one- brand: Kitchen devils by Fiskars- it is small and I can manage it good. (I guiltily admit to not being able to handle a cooks knife like the chefs do)
You can however go way over the top equipping your kitchen and this often only results in over full cupboards, jammed drawers and cluttered work surfaces! My general rule is not having to move more than three things in order to reach something at the back of a cupboard. And it works for me.
You can get by with just the basics. I try to avoid too many cooking helps and steer away from gadgets that have just a single use. I look always for items that can multi function: I have for example a large Tupperware (NO-I am NOT a Tupperware freak) bowl with lid that can be used for storage, as a lettuce spinner as well as an independent colander. Don't buy those cute little ramekins if you know they'll only be collecting dust and taking up precious space at the back of your kitchen unit. Keep your head and your commonsense. Those beautiful decorated plates may well look fantastic on their own but may clash horribly when filled with food! I favour white tableware, it is better to have a 'blank canvas' to work with- the focus will be on the food and not on the dinnerware. And don't be lead astray- round plates are fine- and fit nicely in the dishwasher!
All those 'amazing discoveries' may look handy but by the time you have located them at the back of your cupboard, assembled them (and washed them up after use) you may well find you would have been quicker using a knife and be left with much less food waste. I'm thinking of the various cutting devices available. How many do you have? And do you use them- be honest now...
You don't always need to opt for the top end- I use inexpensive wine glasses because I know they have a short life expectancy in my household.
My all time favourites:
I have a few items in the kitchen that I couldn't possibly live without- one is my Zyliss cheese grater- There is nothing so good as freshly grated (hard)cheese. I had one for years, it was extremely durable but it eventually broke but luckily I managed to find a new one, the design was roughly the same- only the colour had changed from black to white.
One thing I can do without is a food processor. I seem to manage with a hand held mixer to whisk and a stick mixer to blend. I like the hands on approach and get satisfaction from a simple whisk or kneading with my bare hands call me a sucker for punishment but I find it therapeutic.
I have a decent set of saucepans (and rarely opt to use my non-stick ones).
I am a huge fan of Bodum- 'make taste not waste'- is their current slogan. Visit their website- their new catalogue is worth flicking through- it all seems very well thought out- and it's fun! I have a beautiful Bodum wok pan that I use a lot. It is cast iron so is extremely heavy and I do have to wash it up by hand- but that is a small price to pay. It makes a perfect Thai curry. It has a 'stable' flat bottom but visually resembles a wok. I also have a Bodum griddle pan- a 'grilled' steak with the characteristic ‘stripes’ always tastes better somehow.

I often use my Bodum glass dishes with plastic lids which I bought in France- but given the chance I would buy many more. They are very versatile and go from fridge to microwave to table to dishwasher and can even go in the freezer. Yes they are made of glass but after 5 years not only are they going strong they are 100% intact.
Disappointed in a product.*
Sadly Bodum has recently fallen off the pedestal as far as I am concerned. After 15 years of using Cole and Mason salt and pepper mills- (the salt/pepper grinder specialist in the UK) last year I went over to Bodum. (bad decision) True the design is beautiful, and it does what it should but the pepper mill has unsightly hairline cracks in the acrylic body and the lacquer of both is blistering very slightly. Perhaps it is a flaw in the design since the cracks have appeared at the same position as the tiny screws but I don't know because as yet Bodum haven't even given me the courtesy of a reply! The 'Nissen' mills do have a 10 year guarantee- but I no longer have a receipt. I hoped for quality but didn’t even get run of the ' mill '! Very disappointing, especially when you are used to high standards from such a reputable company.
* Update: I have since received a replacement pepper mill from Bodum.

While I am on the subject of guarantee- if a piece of equipment has a ‘Lifetime Guarantee’ then take it with a pinch of salt. It doesn't mean your lifetime- it is the 'products lifetime' -basically the number of years that the article is reasonably expected to last- so very vague indeed! I think this is something that should be addressed.
Oil and vinegar.
It took me quite a while to find a decent oil and vinegar set- I've been through a few in my day, being eventually tossed aside because they don't quite make the grade. I love my salads and must always have (Cretan) olive oil and balsamic vinegar on hand. I now use a set by Cole and Mason, these not only look beautiful they do function quite well. They are not completely anti-drip but they do have a lot of advantages- easy to dose, easy to fill, the contents are stored fairly dark and sealed, easy to clean (in the dishwasher), large and easy opening to add flavours like peppers/herbs/ garlic.
A fairly recent new addition is a sturdy (vegetable) peeler from a make called OXO. It is American, nothing to do with the British OXO (if you were wondering)...their mission: "OXO is dedicated to providing innovative consumer products that make everyday living easier." They also offer a Satisfaction Guarantee- which shows confidence that surely must reflect from good and quality products. I like their style and so far love their goods. Website.
Mepal is also a great brand. Great for storage and they make a handy mixing spoon with a hole in the middle I use a lot. Sometimes it can be a bit 'top heavy' but that doesn't put me off only slightly annoyed as I am scrapping food of the kitchen units.
Searching for the perfect garlic press.
Another little kitchen help that has caused me a certain amount of problems is a garlic press- I have tried so many all with dissatisfaction, leaving more discarded goods in my path to perfection… Or it is too small, or the garlic escapes through the edges or the results just don't justify scraping out the device with my fingers- the cleaning sucks! Basically they leave me with a bad taste in my mouth as well as smelly hands! I currently have two (rejects) and what did I favour - a simple grater!
Things were about to change. Recently I was invited to a special evening in Den Haag. It was an initiative and coming together of three organisations who share common ground of enjoying good food and drink and making life as harmonious as possible in the kitchen (and bathroom). Marthijn, Bas and Misha.
It took place after regular hours at Bas Hogervorst a shop selling quality bathroom/ cookware/ & tableware. Brands include Bodum, Menu, Eva Solo, Zyliss. The atmosphere was very relaxed we were free to wander through the shop at our leisure gazing at all the beautiful, luxury and (mostly) practical products on display. (feeling like a child in sweet shop!) We were offered a discount but no pushy sales pitch. There were cooking demonstrations (and tasting) and we could sample the delicious Italian specialities offered by Food Valley Import cheeses and salami....and where there is good food there are of course good wines- the wine tasting was organised by Marthijn Loof from Porte Reffe. For more info. see my blog here.
Bad buy.
While scouring the shelves I did keep in the back of my mind the fact that I had just sold my Nespresso and Philips juicer (the wonder of www.marktplaats.nl ) in order to create more work surface. Just like weeding ones garden one must regularly access your kitchen aids and make the redundancies known. As great as the Nespresso tastes I couldn't justify what I had to exchange- valuable working space! It was the Senseo or the Nespresso. While the Nespresso has an certain air of 'exclusiveness', I like to have a supply of coffee capsules without having to remember to place an order. Call me down to earth- but I think it ridiculous that you have to join the somewhat elite Nespresso "club" in order to get a supply of your favourite coffee. Then take into consideration minimum orders, postal charges and delivery times....Senseo won hands down. Same goes for the Philips juicer- while you may envisage yourself drinking lots of healthy concoctions- in practice you don't. The washing up part is the big put off- although it all can go into the dishwasher. I used mine what twice in six months. Great tasting juice- true but I actually prefer eating my fruit and vegetables whole and I have gladly claimed back my work surface. The one I only recently obtained and was so readily willingly to fill! We extended our kitchen surface because my actual workspace measured a mere 95cm! Not enough for me!

Back on subject- on the evening I was good, my control was admirable- I came away with a healthy glow to my cheeks, a bottle of my favourite wine of the evening, a wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano and my best find- my latest garlic press.

It was from OXO a brand that already gave me some confidence knowing the peeler had become an true asset in my kitchen.
This is a one good looking garlic press but what is it like in practice?- well while I am in am very positive I'm still not 100% happy. I'm a hard girl to please! One of the reasons for choosing this particular garlic press is because of the extra large chamber. I love garlic and use a lot of single clove garlic (also known as pearl /solo garlic). This kind is easier to use if you grate garlic. While the press is large enough to accommodate a whole garlic it was however difficult to press. It is clearly a man’s tool! I did try it with a couple of small cloves though and it worked fine.
As for cleaning it does come up trumps. It has a special 'cleaner' which does actually work. Just flip the handle over, and the residue of garlic ‘pulp’ peels out in one piece like a skin, rinse with cold water and it is (almost) clean. It can even go in the dishwasher.
An accurate measuring jug is a must in every kitchen- and that is not a joke. I have one measuring jug that is not accurate at all! It's almost too unbelievable to be true. So beware if your recipe is repeatedly too wet- view your jug with suspicion and get it checked for accuracy!
We have come a long way.
I was just thinking of how things have changed since granny's old basin, wooden spoon and a piece of muslin cloth! Style has come into the kitchen area. When did this happen? Was this a natural progression in the modern world- one that sees men not just at ease but excelling in the kitchen or was it the influence of the celebrity chefs?
It is indeed the power of the media that has enabled Jamie Oliver to single handedly change English school dinners for ever. His quirky use of language with catchphrases like 'pukka' and 'lovely jubbly' and his 'wicked' sense of humour has been his recipe to success. Notable is his natural ability to relate to, inspire (and I hope educate) the younger audience. He has even brought out a whole own line of kitchenware.
Delia Smith with her simple style has encouraged the beginner cooks and even caused massive sell-outs of particular ingredients and utensils across the UK after episodes of her TV series. She has even earned herself a place in the English dictionary with "do-a-delia"!
Charismatic Nigella Lawson has taken glamour into the kitchen. She has gained remarkable achievement as celebrity chef, food writer and presenter even more impressive considering she has no formal chef training.
Gordon Ramsay may have an unconventional approach and rather hostile demeanor but his Michelin stars reflect his exceptional culinary abilities.
Maybe the world has become a smaller place what with today’s easiness to travel the globe and the ever expanding internet.
Where we used to go out for 'foreign foods' or ‘take a ways’ we now skillfully prepare authentic Indian, Chinese or even French cuisine in the home. We are more open to new things, we have been introduced to many new ingredients/ dishes; Couscous and Bulgur, are just examples of recent new foods trends.
Our supermarkets continue to offer us a better and wider selection of products, once considered exotic foods. The increase in readymade meals is however rather worrying but I hope they are an occasional sunstitution and not a total replacement to healthy home cooked meals. Perhaps I am being naive because the statistics show otherwise. Convienience foods have had a bad effect on our diets. But hopefully the tide is turning. We are more aware of our dietary needs and that is positive because to put it simple- we are what we eat!
Our kitchens may well have gone from practical to design workspace. The methods of food preparation may have altered, as labour saving devices continue to make our life easier. Large refrigerator and freezers have replaced pantries, steam ovens have speeded up the slow process of steaming. Microwaves and dishwashers have become the essential appliances in the modern day kitchen. Internet has made it possible for us to now order online and have our groceries delivered! We have come a long way but one thing remains: the nutritional value must remain the major factor in our choice of food intake if we want to achieve optimum health.
It is regretful that obesity has been allowed to reach such epidemic proportions.
Here Jamie Oliver tries to get the message across to the Americans- I hope he succeeds. Go Jamie go.

woensdag 3 februari 2010

Brazil...not quite the taste of paradise


Due to our camper business we are unable to get away from April til October. We spend several months waving other people off on their holidays, so around January-February it's time to make our getaway.
In order to find some half decent weather we have to look a little further afield than France of Greece. This year we opted for some Brazilian sunshine and as always some food inspiration. After my previous holiday, experiencing for the first time a taste of Thailand, I went on to master the most wonderful aromatic Thai curries. I couldn't wait to develop my South American kitchen skills- sadly I was left slightly disappointed.
Brazil is the fifth largest country in the world. The people are a diverse mix of colour and race, there is no typical Brazilian face and therefore no single Brazilian cuisine but rather a collection of regional flavours . Local specialities are reflected in the ingredients available as well as influence (Portuguese, Italian, Spanish, German, or African) It seems to me Brazil is the land of plenty. But to be honest I found the food somewhat lacking, perhaps I visited the wrong area. I expected spicy- exotic certainly not unimaginative. We arrived in Natal and travelled South as far as Recife.
The first week we were doing a round trip with a group of 22 so largely I expected buffet. No I'm definitely no fan of buffet, is anyone? I find it mostly uninspiring and often cold! Some of the buffets were just that, others pretty good, Sushi was even on offer and Feijouda/ Feijoada. This is about the nearest Brazil come to a national dish, it is a meat/bean stew. I envisioned this dish as being yummy and rich but was quite shocked to discover (animal) pieces I didn't recognise or care to eat. It certainly wasn't spicy but rather salty. I quickly lost my appetite.
The first week I appeased myself by filling up on desserts and fruit - and these were way better than any I had eaten in Egypt or Thailand. They are made of sweet ingredients like condensed milk and sugar. They also like to make use of coconut in many desserts and Doce de leite (milky caramel). Quindim flan is an example of a typical Brazilian dessert(see photo). Basically as long as it is a creamy milky sweet concoction it qualifies. They also make perfect cakes, these were equally served for breakfast, lunch as dinner and I couldn't make out if they were home-baked or shop bought they were so good. The texture is open but light, it is moist, but non greasy. Bread is another story (very processed).
Our (buffet) breakfast generally consisted of soft bread, cheese, ham, sausages, boiled or fried egg/ omelette. A wide selection of cakes and fruit. Juices. Cereals and milk. Coffee and tea.
At one hotel (at breakfast time) we were treated to Tapioca pancakes- this was a shell with various fillings of choice including ham, cheese, coconut. The preparation was very interesting to watch. A fine layer of Tapioca (cassave) flour was sprinkled in the frying pan and this was cooked until set, the filling was added and then it was flipped making an envelope (kind of like a toasty) delicious and very filling.
Lunch and dinner were almost identical, the Brazilians like the Thais, enjoy their warm meals and take plenty of time to relax and enjoy. They are a social folk and love eating out.
The staple diet is one of meat, beans,(American)rice,(sweet)potatoes or cassave. But all rather plainly prepared.
Frango (Chicken) is mostly served without a sauce, lightly seasoned, moderately salted.
Salted meat is readily available but tough dry and in my opinion unpleasant.
Examples of vegetables on the menu were beetroot, carrot, broccoli and the same salad was served wherever you went(finely diced tomato & onion in a simple vinegarette dressing).
A side dish that kept popping up on the table was Farofa, a toasted manioc (cassave) flour sautéed in butter with various bits i.e. bacon or beef pieces and onion, which you sprinkle over your food.
I didn't once see ‘dendê oil‘(orange/red palm oil)which I had read about, (I have no idea if I have sampled it).
You can forget about spicing up your dish with condiments (it is already heavily salted) and pepper you'll be very lucky to find! Pepper pots are filled- but with cocktail sticks!
We also sampled BBQ or the Brazilian 'Churrasco'- no BBQ sauce in sight! There is an abundance of quality meat mostly cooked on large skewers over a grill. Often the 'servers' bring the large skewers and carve at the table directly on your plate. I was quite surprised to see a little row of 'hearts' being offered- yuk! Not for me- I don't do offal.
A la carte:
Certainly meat in general, was in abundance, in Holland you get a minuscule steak, here you get at least two a piece if not more, of succulent meat! The quality is extremely good, (just ask the happy little 'beach' dog outside Hotel Morro do Careca, Ponta Negra) and they are cooked to absolute perfection.
But how much meat can one eat? I would have preferred a little more tender care with the vegetables.
Our best meal has got to be filets of medallions (of beef) wrapped in bacon and served with Madeira sauce (two each!). Shame it was spoilt by the broccoli ‘pieces’ (not even florets) that was carelessly tossed through the rice. Vegetables seem to be an afterthought.
There is a lot of fish available and we tried a fish menu which was rather uninspiring. Plenty of large fish 'steaks' were served with a tasteless drab 'paste/mash' of something unrecognisable and the coconut milk based sauce was bland (to be kind).
During one meal I thought I caught a faint taste of fresh coriander, but it could have been wishful thinking.
We ate a an Mexican restaurant hoping for spicy- it wasn’t. This was about our worse meal in Brazil.
Once we were shocked to discover instant mashed potato on our plates! This was one of the better restaurants.
One evening our meal was spoiled by two unruly Brazilian children, literally having a food fight in the middle of the restaurant- and being totally blanked by the parents! And I thought Dutch children were the 'free spirits'...
Street/Beach Vendors:
I did eat the famous 'Camarão'(shrimps) from a beach vendor and boy they were the best I have ever eaten! And I didn't get sick!
The street/ beach vendors are amazing, they show such skill in impossible conditions like hot temperatures (32°C)and very limited facilities. I also ate a beach lunch of corn on the cob. And a light lunch of freshly cooked cashew nuts. Everything is brought to the comfort of your relax chair be it chips, fruit, ice-cream, shrimps, fish, skewers of meat or cocktails, or whatever your stomach desires.
Funny how we were easily eating two warm meals (lunch and dinner with dessert) the first week, albeit late (lunch around 2pm, dinner around 8:30pm) and by the second week we were struggling! Sometimes we snacked other times we skipped lunch altogether, forgetting to eat!
One day we couldn't face another warm lunch so opted for a lighter meal. We decided to 'snack' on interesting little cheesy filled balls called Pão de Queijo, these are little puffs of dough (cassave flour/ tapioca starch) to keep it simple- kind of like choux pastry filled with gooey cheese. They are also available sweet, I couldn't resist one filled with doce de leite (dulce de leche). mmm Heaven! You can make your own Dulche de Leche recipes can be found here.
Another day we just ordered a portion of Macaxeira Fritas, no not Batatas chipped potatoes- we opted for 'cassave chips'. A chunky, crispy starchy snack, without mayonaise, or even salt and pepper!
In the evening we carefully selected a restaurant but never made it to dessert! You could negotiate where to eat by bartering for free Caipirinha's.
What Brazil is lacking in food it makes up in the drink department whether it be alcoholic beverages or fruit juices.
Certainly one of the better things about Brazil was the cocktails, available any time, any place, anywhere....
Caipirinha made of a liquor called cachaça, sugar, crushed ice and chopped, 'muddled' limes, (very much like mojito without the mint). They are very easy to drink but must never be underestimated- they contain a potent kick. To cater for the international taste the cachaça can be substituted by vodka making a Caipiroska or (Bacardi) rum and it becomes a Caipirissima. All are simply divine, even when served in plastic cups by the poolside or on the beach!
If you prefer non alcohol, just ask for 'sem álcool' my favourite juice was Maracujá, the yellow variety of passion fruit (larger than the purple ones) which was deliciously refreshing. They often add sugar (or sweeteners) but they don't taste overly sweet.
Fruit juices (Sucos) are very important, generally you have a choice of three types at breakfast time. I believe they use modern juicers to extract the juice as it has a froth on top and the juicers are readily available in the shops there. You can choose from anything ranging from mango, orange, pineapple, Açerola, (a cherry like fruit juice rich in vitamin C), papaya or Cajú (this is the fruit from where the cashew nut grows, the fruit is generally only made into juice and not eaten)
The cashew is very interesting because per fruit only one Cashew 'nut' is produced.
Sometimes the juices can taste rather sour/bitter. I sweetened mine with one or two drops of liquid sweetener which is readily available in Brazil in the hotels/restaurants and much cheaper at the supermarkets than here in Holland. I will just add I normally avoid sweetener at all costs, as a rule no diet drinks for me but in this case it just took the bitterness away without any aftertaste.
Another drink that I particularly enjoyed was Guarana. This is popular fruit flavoured fizzy drink that gives Coca Cola a run for its money in Brazil. It's very refreshing and claims to have many health properties. It is made of Amazonian berries. It contains a stimulant substance very similar to caffeine. I found it to taste a bit like a fruity, sweet ginger ale. It is also available as Zero (low calorie) like cola.*
If you just prefer beer then order a Cerveja, most often than not you will be served a Skol- a light but refreshing lager. To keep it cool it is often served in a polystyrene casing.
Brazilian wine is ok, but nothing to write home about. You can better order import- or stick to the cocktails.

Sometimes there is nothing that can quench your thirst like an aqua de coco. This is 'coconut water' obtained from green (unripe) coconuts. These coconuts are readily available. They are served chilled and 'fresh' (they are skillfully opened in front of you) and you suck out the juice with a straw. My 'first' was in Thailand last year. Similar to my first taste of Dorian fruit, your 'first' is an experience that lives with you- nothing can prepare you! It tastes a little bit like what you would imagine oral rehydration salts would taste. Let’s just say it's an acquired taste- it grows on you. And it hydrates you like nothing else.
Brazilian coffee is served as a potent shot of espresso, any time of the day. I don't normally take sugar in my coffee (or tea) but I did there! It is a match made in heaven. Drink it when you need to be 'picked up'.
To counteract the lacking of the dish, you may well find the 'surprise element' on your bill:
'Couvert' is a small appetizer which is offered at the start of a meal. It can be very good, we had a aubergine dish which was excellent. It can be simple like a portion of olives or elaborate. However it is not complimentary. You can refuse it- just ask the waiter to take it away. If you eat it you will be charged, usually per person! So just like you may see 'coperto' (bread) as an extra on your bill in Italy, here you will find the word 'couvert'.

At river beach Jacaré,Cabedelo, João Pessoa there is a daily performance by Jurandy do Sax, who arrives at a restaurant playing “Bolero de Ravel” with his saxophone, as the sun sets. This promises to be a very moving, unfortunately on this day it was rainy!
Or 'couvert artistico'; If there is live music (be it one performer or a band)you will almost certainly be expected to make a small contribution- you will be charged for it per person (around 4 Brazilian Real) on your bill!
You will however not be expected to leave a tip- simply because you will have already have been billed for it! 10% service charge is nearly always automatically included at the end of bill.
Often they work on minimum wages so tips are appreciated.
To be fair you do get value for money and in general you can get a 'good' meal for two for 25euro.
Perhaps I am being rather unkind. I do think the weather had something to do with our lack of appetite. But when faced with a string of restaurants and I start yearning for my own home cooking then something isn't quite right. When oversized meat dishes are on offer and we sneak off to an Italian for a pizza and a Spaghetti Carbonara then something must be wrong! We couldn't even empty our plates there!
Browsing though a supermarket didn’t happen either- the nearest supermarket was a bus ride away- I’m not surprised the Brazilians favours eating out! We only managed to find a small convenient store.

If you read through the lines you will see I breakfasted on cake, drank cocktails throughout the day- feasted on quality cuts of meat, oh it certainly wasn't all that bad. It is just that it has the potential to be so much more. The ingredients are readily available, the blandness of the food just isn’t necessary.
Don’t get me wrong we had a good holiday:

We felt the wind in our hair blasting through the dunes in a beach buggy.
We were exhilarated riding over rugged terrain in our quad and the adrenaline flowed while hanging on the roof of a jeep!
I mastered the art of the hammock, and hubby learnt to walk in flip-flops!
We took a stroll through the jungle and sheltered from a tropical rain shower.
We chased away giant frogs and reenacted the last supper in full attire!
We had breakfast with the monkeys and struggled to communicate with the locals.
But the land itself didn’t exceed in charming us. It was messy, bad roads, worse pavement, many buildings are standing in a state of demolition, not to mention the piles of litter- all very unsightly.
There is little or no English spoken, (and I mean even at the hotel reception) which does little to generate the promotion of tourism!
And the topping? We fell victim to Brazils criminal activities- this more than anything left an unpleasant taste in the mouth that the caipirinha just couldn't wash away.
And next year? I’ve heard that Peruvian cuisine is one of the best in the world…on the other hand I’d just as happily take a camper to Greece…but in February brr?...perhaps then back to the east- maybe Vietnam? Any ideas?
More photo's (160 selected)here .

UPDATE: 11 February- The postcards still haven't arrived!
UPDATE: 16 March- Not a single postcard has arrived!
UPDATE: 1 May- Yes! One postcard arrived today- just when I had given up all hope!
Update: 11 May- Yes! All the postcards have now arrived! I have been getting calls from family and friends all week checking up on me, thinking I had sneaked off to Brazil again!

*Update jan 2011: Guarana is now available here in The Netherlands in the form of Pisang Ambon Guarana Lime.
I also recently discovered it is a component of the creamy banana/coconut alcoholic drink Boswandeling.

zondag 10 januari 2010

Wine Tasting in Den Haag

On Friday I was kindly invited for a wine tasting session with a friend that has helped educate me in the field of wines. I gladly accepted, not only do I have a thirst for good wines but also for knowledge.
While I enjoy a glass of wine, I always drink in moderation because unfortunately wine isn't very kind to me.
I used to only drink white wines until it became impossible to enjoy, knowing fully well what the implications would be: a day long hangover. The hangovers were bad and each time I vowed never to touch another drop- but each time I would give in to temptation....
I'm not even talking binge drinking here but sometimes as little as 2-3 glasses are enough to leave me feeling poorly. Since I have a tendency to suffer from cystitis I am especially careful not to dehydrate my body. I drink water in between and always avoid drinking on an empty stomach.
Sometime ago I decided to switch to red wines. Interestingly enough, most people react worse with red wines but I found them much kinder. Now I only drink white wine with (certain) food, rosé on a warm terrace and red on all other occasions.

The wine tasting was held at a modern and very colourful wine shop called Porte Reffe Wijn en Zo Javastraat 90, Den Haag.* It's decor is simple but beautiful and the bottles of wine are displayed very nicely. Porte Reffe specialises in European wines.
You may just pop in for a bottle of wine but if you become a 'Club member' (cost 120euro) you not only receive a complimentary bottle of wine but other benefits like 10% shop discount, free tasting every month, and furthermore you may bring an introducee to the tastings. It was a honour to be the introducee on this evening.
The tasting took place in a small group, in a very relaxed atmosphere with a distinct international feel. Ambiance is important but quality wines are what we were there for- we were not disappointed.
Marthijn welcomed us in to his shop and his enthusiasm and passion for wines was present as he talked about each and every wine giving us some interesting information. We were provided with a sheet of paper with the wine details, year, prices and an order list. I used my paper to jot down my thoughts on each wine. In a three hour period people wandered in and out, they were welcomed like old friends. You were free to sample and enjoy the different wines at your own leisure in whichever order you desired. There was no strict rules over sniffing the wines or spitting them out, although I guess you could if you wanted...

This time we were focusing on Italian wines, 5 whites, 4 reds and 3 dessert. The prices ranged between 8euro and 32euro.
White wines:

Casale Marchese
Frascati Superiore 2008 doc

L'Agreste
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 'Classico Superiore '2007 doc

Vinosia
Fiao di Avellino 2008 docg

Vinosia
Falanghina 2008 IGT

Feudo Antico
Tullum 2008 doc

Red wines:

Fontenera
Negroamaro del Salento 2008 IGT

Fontenera
Primitivo del Salento IGT

Montezovo
Valpolicella Superiore- metodo Ripasso- 2005 doc

Montezovo
Amarone della Valpolicella 2006 doc

Dessert wines:

San Giovanni
Offida Passerina Passito 2002 doc

Cantina Lavorata
Greco di Bianco 2007

Quignones
Anèr, Vino Passito Rosso

To accompany the wine Marthijn put together two old friends 'wine and cheese' and provided us with an interesting selection of cheeses. Types ranging from goats to soft 'brie style' cheese, and hard 'gran padano style'. Not just Italian cheeses but also from Texel, Holland and France. The cheeses paired well and complimented the wines beautifully and was served with fresh bread.

I just closed my eyes and for a moment I was back in Bella Italia. My personal favourite wines were Casale Marchese Frascati Superiore 2008 at 10euro a bottle and Fontenera Primitivo del Salento at 8euro a bottle.
I guess I still have a lot to learn since I favoured the cheaper wine, but I could also appreciate the more expensive Montezovo Amarone della Valpolicella 2006.
If it is good wines with personal service you are looking for then I would certainly suggest you call in to Porte Reffe. Marthijn is ready and willing to share his knowledge and advise you on a perfect choice.
I would also recommend becoming a Club Member, it seems like a pretty good deal to me. A good and accommodating wine supplier. A monthly evening out sampling fine wines with good conversation. Especially if you are new to the Netherlands it is a great way of meeting new people.
I'm certainly considering becoming a regular, who knows maybe I will see you there?
*2011: Porte Reffe has now moved from the Javastraat to new premises. The address is Vlierboomstraat 582 - 584
2564 JN Den Haag
Please contact Marthijn via his website for actual information on becoming a club member, the prices/conditions may have changed.

zaterdag 9 januari 2010

These are a few of my favorite things


Welcome to 2010.
I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas with plenty of laughter, cheer and good food.
For Christmas dinner I cooked a traditional 'Sunday roast beef'.
Starter: Creamy leek, potato and celery soup with a topping of smoked mackerel.
Two roasts with balsamic and red wine sauce/gravy.
Roast fennel/ parsnips/ carrots/butternut squash and red onion.
Brussel sprouts with walnut and cranberries and thyme.
Yorkshire puddings.
Roast potatoes.
Sausages wrapped in bacon.
Dessert: Christmas pudding with steamed pears and cream.
We quickly had to pack in because we were leaving early the next morning for England.
I was looking forward to seeing family but also to visiting the local supermarkets!
When I came to Holland I missed many English foods that were just not available here. Times have changed and now practically everything is obtainable, at the local supermarket, online or in the English shop in Leiden. I have also, to some degree adapted and have found similar Dutch products that equally meet my needs.
Initially the selection in the Dutch supermarkets were very limited. I remember there being two flavour crisps available ready salted and paprika! I have noticed the Dutch have become more open to foreign foods (other than Suriname or Indonesian) and now the shelves are full with many package foods (the Dutch love their packaged foods) tempting us to try new dishes. (I did notice in the English supermarkets the availability of many fresh ready for the oven meals. Especially suitable for people living alone. It couldn't be easier!)
Almost every Dutch supermarket now offers a selection of English and American foods and there are almost as many pasta shapes and colours available as in Italy.
But put me in an English supermarket and I still feel like a child in a candy shop. I still bring a wide range of products with me from England.
This time it was Tea (no matter how many Dutch teas claim to be English ONLY the tea purchased (albeit without strings) in England hits the spot.
Real pickled onions!
Mince pies, malt loaf and biscuits.
Marmite- the large jar beats those silly mini jars available here.
English chocolate- forget Belgium chocolate- I like the rich creaminess of English chocolate. Quality Street, Roses, Maltesers, Dime, Double Decker (my childhood favourite candy bar), Crunchie and a box of chocolate Terry's All Gold (milk chocolate).
Oxo and Bisto- for the best gravy ever.
Condensed milk.
Salt and vinegar crisps, and Twiglets (with yeast extract-similar to Marmite)
Stuffing mix- yes you can make your own but handy to have.
Birds custard powder- I just like it better.
Harltley's Jelly- for vodka jelly shots, or English trifle or just a fancy for childhood treat.
Clotted cream- in a jar for a special occasion.
Patak garlic pickle- a most wonderful pickle for spicing up a sandwich, pizza or curry. This sporadically available here in the Toko's and I have found the only supermarket to stock it in England- Waitrose (the posh supermarket!). I usually empty the shelves. This time it was just three!
Alka-Seltzer- for those occasions when you have over indulged on food or drink!
Colman's Mustard powder- the strong stuff for clearing your sinuses.
Dr Oeter almond and vanilla natural extracts- (unlike the artificial ones available here)
Angostura bitters- after much searching I found this on the shelf at Sainsbury's. Great for use in (alcoholic) cocktails but also for soups, salads, puddings.
Monin pure sugar cane- for making your very own Mojito (white rum) cocktails. Unfortunately Monin Grenadine Syrup (the real Grenadine for cocktail and dessert making) was out of stock.
Cheeses, sausages and joints of meat.
Parsnips.

And last but not least, my prize catch this time were two bottles of oils. A pity that I couldn't visit any famers markets but I discovered on the shelf at Tesco's:
Organic Rapeseed Oil £2.85 1 litre. I became fascinated by this product after my many visits to England, watching with fascination the fields of brightly yellow flowers for as far as the eye could see. Nigella is also very taken with it and I was determined to find some too. Interestingly enough it is linked with both positive as negative health properties. It can reduce cholesterol levels, but possibly can have adverse effects on asthma and hay-fever sufferers.
Here you can read a little more about rapeseed oil from a fellow blogger.
My oil is slightly cloudy and not overly yellow, similar to the Arachis (peanut) oil I sometimes use. I find the taste very light and subtle. I think it will be equally as good for use in cooking as a substitute for mild olive oil that I generally use.
Grapeseed Oil- £3.10 1 litre. We are used to consuming grapes in the form of wine but did you know about the by-product of wine making? A green edible vegetable oil that is extracted from the grapeseed. And what is more, after developing seedless varieties of grapes to appease difficult consumers, researchers are now discovering that many of the health properties of grapes may actually come from the seeds themselves! They have many beneficial health properties (and possibly anti-disease properties) and are especially high in antioxidants.
Grapeseed oil can be used in dressings as well as cooking (being very heat stable). It has a pleasant but delicate taste, that won't overpower delicate foods like extra virgin oil sometimes can, I think it would be great for making mayonaise.
I also bought back Strongbow cider and Guinness beer. Luckily cider has recently become available here, but I saw cider on offer at a price I couldn't refuse!
I normally bring other goodies back such as Branston Pickle, mint sauce and even disinfectant but I still had a supply. I am very happy with my purchases and can't wait until my next trip.
If you ask me what the one thing is that I can't do without then it has to be salt and vinegar crisps, every now and then I get an overpowering urge for this flavour crisps. Yes you can buy Pringles in AH but they just don't compare to the real McCoy, or Walkers.
I always get a kick of visiting foreign supermarkets and with a bit of luck, I will very shortly be browsing the supermarkets of Natal, Brazil!