Posts tonen met het label Sage. Alle posts tonen
Posts tonen met het label Sage. Alle posts tonen

zaterdag 6 november 2010

From sticky rice to perfect risotto


What is your biggest fear in the kitchen? Everyone surely must have something, a dish or ingredient that constantly goes wrong. I certainly do, or dare I say I did. Don't asume it is something elaborate like a Soufflé but one of the all time basics- RICE, YES really! Sticky / gooey/ wet or worse unevenly cooked- believe me- my family has experienced it all!
But what is more satisfying than facing up to your culinary fears (how could one possible scrap rice from the diet being a staple food for nearly one half of the world's population!?) and finding the skills to conquer them!
I used to have a big problem with Quiches which I quite successfully managed to overcome but as far as rice is concerned, just when I think I've mastered it and I'm used to turning out light, fluffy, perfect separate grained rice, I go and spoil it by producing a batch that makes me what to go and hang my head in shame!
Last year I held a Indian themed dinner party- it was a great success- apart from my Basmati rice- which was an absolute disaster! Overcooked and mushy on the bottom but hard on the top! OK it hasn't happened since but it shouldn't happen at all! How difficult can it be? The fault was in the pan (don't believe the saying a good craftsman never blames his tools!), because I was catering for a large group I used a different pan with a thinner bottom than I am accustomed to using.
For those who still struggle with rice see below for the absolute foolproof way of cooking rice. (as long as you use the right pan that is ;-) )

Something I very much enjoy is a Risotto. Because of my rice phobia I had for a long time I avoided making Risotto. The thought alone made me nervous! I had only ever made it a handful of times but now it is almost weekly on the menu!
A bit worrying is the saying: "risotto waits for no one" It must be cooked, served and eaten at once! Failure to do so will result in disappointment and disaster- as it continues to cook in it's own heat and become sticky and dry. I've often wondered how they are prepared to such perfection in restaurants, I understand they are 'half' cooked and finished off to order.
Risotto making is quite labour intensive (but not nearly as bad a polenta) It does require constant attention and regular stirring however- stick to this and all will be well (how do you like my positive thinking?!) I have made very bad risotto in the past, but with my new found confidence with rice, it now turns out perfect every time!.
I became particularly fond of Risotto during my visits to Italy. Not surprising since it originates from Northern Italy. It has restaurant status there. You can usually choose in every restaurant out of a wide range on the menu. It is so creamy, flavourful and satisfying. It a wonderful comfort' food, ideal at this time of the year.

The type of rice to use in risotto is the medium/short round grain. Varieties include: Carnaroli, Vialone Nano and the more common Arborio. Strange enough the first two are the easiest to cook but a little more expensive. Risotto can be made with many kinds of vegetables, meats and herbs.
If you adhere to a few simple steps & add a ladle full of patience then YOU could be turning out the prima donna of Italian cuisine!.
Firstly:
Always use 'risotto' rice.
Never wash the rice prior to cooking!
Fry the rice in butter/oil before adding stock. Always use hot stock. Add the stock one ladle at a time, make use nearly all the water has been absorbed before adding more. Don't worry if you don't need all the liquid and if you don't have enough just boil some extra water.

Basic method for Risotto:
1. Start with the 'Soffritto' which is a mixture finely chopped vegetables, such as onions, garlic, and celery, that is sautéed in butter/olive oil and used as a base for many Italian dishes. Use a large wide pan and heat the oil/butter. Add the finely chopped onions and sweat them for several minutes (do not brown) Add garlic finely chopped celery or other vegetables.
2. Vegetables or meat that require longer cooking times should be added at this stage. (Sausage/ pumpkin/ butternut squash/ fennel /mushrooms/peppers)
3.Add the rice, increase the heat and fry for approx 4 minutes stirring well. This is known as 'toasting the rice' the rice should be fully coated with oil, and warmed through, and appear translucent (not brown!)
4. Add the wine/ vermouth, the alcohol will cook out quickly but the delicious essence will be left behind. And smell like heaven!
5. Once the wine/ vermouth has become absorbed, begin adding the hot stock. The water used to reconstitute dried mushrooms can also be used. Ladle for ladle Your pot should be at a constant, moderate heat throughout. As each addition of liquid becomes absorbed/ evaporates add more. You may have stock over or you may need to boil more water- no worries.
6. Add any vegetables, seafood, or meat that need short cooking heating though accordingly. (cooked/ smoked chicken/shrimps/ tomatoes/peas)
7.After 17 minutes begin tasting the rice at regular intervals, reduce the quantity of stock towards the end ( to 1/2 ladle) Generally it should be ready in 20 minutes. You are looking for 'al dente' rice but certainly not hard. It should have a creamy consistency.
8. Once you are satisfied with the rice and sauce you are ready for the final stage: 'mantecatura'. Turn off the heat and add a large knob of butter and parmesan cheese (if not using fish), stir well and let it sit for a few minutes.
9. Add extra herbs if desired i.e. parsley.
10. Adjust the seasoning if necessary and serve immediately.

This versatile recipe is easily adaptable to suit many ingredients. Once you have mastered the basic technique you are open to many delicious flavour combinations. Keep it simple with not too many flavours- very typical of Italian cuisine and it will be at it's very best. I have done a run on sausage meat, strange enough I'm not a great lover of sausages! You could also use (smoked)chicken, or bacon, prawns even left over meats or even go vegetarian. Further recipes coming soon. Great combinations are so easy to come up with. Let a particular herb lead the taste or try the flavourful gorgonzola cheese as basis. I certainly will never bore of Risotto.
I use fresh herbs. I am lucky enough to have Thyme, Sage and Rosemary available all year round in my garden. You could of course substitute dried herbs.


Sausage thyme risotto
Sorry no photo's of this one, these were on the laptop that got stolen. This is a fairly basic recipe flavoured with fresh Thyme. I think this was one of my first risotto successes.

Serves 4
300gr Arborio rice
850ml stock, hot
1 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, finely chopped
1-2 sticks celery, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
olive oil
500gr sausages, skin removed cut in slices/pieces
100ml vermouth
few sprigs of fresh thyme
chopped parsley about 1 tbsp.
40gr butter
40gr parmesan cheese
salt and pepper

Follow the steps for basic Risotto above adding chopped/skinned sauages at step 2 and cook for a few minutes. Add thyme leaves stripped of the stalks.
Continue until step 10 with adding parsley/extra thyme at step 9
Serve with a sprig of thyme.



Chirozo thyme risotto with cherry tomatoes
The sausages I used in this recipe were bought in AH, (five in a packet) This is certainly one of my favourites. The cherry tomatoes add a little explosion of flavour. (don't forget to pierce them or they will literally ‘explode’ when you try to fork them)

Serves 4
300gr Arborio rice
850ml stock, hot
1 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, finely chopped
1-2 sticks celery, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
paprika powder (sweet)
350gr Chirozo sausage, skin removed cut in slices/pieces
150ml vermouth
8-10 cherry tomatoes, kept whole but pierced
few sprigs of fresh thyme
chopped parsley, approx 1-2 tbsp.
40gr butter
40gr parmesan cheese
salt and pepper

Follow the steps for basic Risotto above adding chopped/skinned chirozo at step 2 and cook for a few minutes. Add thyme leaves stripped of the stalks and paprika.
Continue with the steps, adding the whole tomatoes when the risotto is almost cooked. Add parsley/extra thyme at step 9
Serve with a sprig of thyme and a sprinkling of parsley.



Butternut squash risotto with sage
I love pumpkin and butter nut squash. This year I even managed to grow a few in my garden. As I did with the pumpkin pasta I chopped the butter nut in varying sizes In this way you get a creamy sauce with an occasional bite of pumpkin. Pumpkin and sage go very well indeed. Don't forget to crisp the sage leaves for topping prior to cooking. This is a lovely colourful creamy risotto. My photographs (still learning to work with my new camera) certainly does it no justice at all. The colours are vibrant in real life!


Serves 4
300gr Arborio
1 onion, diced
1 small butternut squash (or small pumpkin), peel and dice in varying sized cubes
3 sausages, skinned, cut into slices
olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
150ml vermouth
850ml stock, hot
sage leaves, washed and thoroughly dried or dried sage (I used about 20 small leaves)
knob butter
100ml creme fraiche
30gr parmesan (I use Grana Padano)
salt and pepper
chili flakes
olive oil / Excellent chili oil
pine nuts (optional) toasted in a dry pan

Heat a little oil in a pan and gently fry about 9 of the (washed and thoroughly dried) sage leaves until crisp. Place on a piece of kitchen roll.
Using the same pan, add a little more olive oil and begin with the steps for basic risotto.
When you get to Step 2 add first the butternut squash fry for a few minutes, then add the sausages, remaining sage leaves, finely chopped and a shake of chili flakes.
Proceed through the Steps, at Stage 8 (add the creme fraiche with the butter and cheese) until completed.
Serve with the crispy sage leaves, sprinkle with parmesan and chili oil. Pine nuts optional.



Rosemary Chirozo Risotto
This time chirozo combined with rosemary. You could use wine or vermouth but this time I opted for balsamic vinegar/ red wine vinegar. The crispy rosemary on top is absolutely delicious.


Serves 4
300gr Arborio rice
1 liter stock, hot
olive oil
5 chirozo sausages, skinned and sliced
2 red onions, finely diced
2 celery sticks finely diced
rosemary, handful, washed and thoroughly dried
4 small garlic, sliced finely
1/2 red bell pepper (capsicum) finely diced
paprika pepper (sweet)
4-5 tomatoes (or 9 whole cherry tomatoes pierced)
2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp. red wine vinegar
salt and pepper
20gr parmesan
20gr butter
20gr pine nuts
olive oil/ Excellent chili olive oil

Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan for a few minutes (don't leave them- like I always do! They will burn quickly) Leave to cool.
Pick out 4 rosemary stalks. Heat a little oil in a pan and gently fry the (washed and thoroughly dried) rosemary until crisp. Place on a piece of kitchen roll.
Using the same pan, add a little more olive oil and begin with the steps for basic risotto.
When you get to Step 2 add the chirozo sausages, remaining rosemary, finely chopped, red pepper and paprika.
At Step 4 substitute vermouth/ wine for balsamic/ red wine vinegar.
Add tomatoes about 5 minutes before you anticipate the rice will be cooked.
Serve with the crispy rosemary, pine nuts and a sprinkling of parmesan and chili oil if desired.



Perfect Basmati rice
From one type of rice to another.
If we are eating Indian I use Basmati rice and follow the "absorption method" this works for me, is simple and reliable. It is where just sufficient water is added to the rice resulting in all the water being fully absorbed by the rice. No wet sticky rice hooray. There is a ratio of 1 cup rice to 1 1/2 cups water.
You also need a fairly thick flat bottomed pan with a tight fitting lid. The rice will considerably increase in volume so make sure the pan is large enough. I love plain white rice, it is simple and fragrant, I never add salt or fats to the rice. Whether I rinse the rice prior to cooking or not depends on the directions on the packaging. Sometimes I soak the rice which does give good results if you have the time, but not absolutely necessary. The measured rice and water is brought to the boil, stirred the lid is placed in position, the temperature reduced and now you must resist peeking for 10 minutes. Try the rice, cook if necessary for a couple of minutes more but ten minutes is usually fine. Let stand for a minimum of ten minutes with the lid firmly in place and just before serving 'fluff' the rice.
If we are eating Thai, then I use Pandan rice which is stickier than Basmati. I still follow the absorption method as above.


And remember- if at first you don't succeed.....
The more you learn and practice, the more confident you will become.
Good Luck!

donderdag 27 mei 2010

Sage, courgette and pasta with pine nuts


Sage is one of the herbs that positively thrives in my garden, it has even moved house with us! And it has been replanted on several occasions.
Apart from pairing it off with onion (sage & onion stuffing) and chicken until recently I didn't really know quite what else to do with it.
Sage is a perennial herb with a very strong flavour that tends to overide everything else- so a little bit goes a long way- perhaps if the truth be known I was a little bit afraid of it!
It was after a Italian cookery workshop given by Victor Russo (I will be doing a blog on Italian cooking soon) that I really started using the herb on a regular basis in my kitchen. We didn't actually use it in the workshop on the evening self. But there was something about the look on his face when he described the taste of fried sage with pasta and the words 'Mamma mia' that just days later had me rushing out into my garden to pluck a handful of sage leaves. I always choose the smaller young leaves, they are flavourful and tender. I carefully wash and dry them. You can fry them in butter or olive oil. They become crisp and delicate, the taste is aromatic and simply amazing- spot on Victor!
Fried sage, courgette pasta for two:
Today I was preparing a meal for two and because I wanted something simple, quick and tasty I opted for sage and pasta. I love Italian food and creamy rich sauces but sometimes simplicity is perfection. It was a wholesome and satisfying meal.
I started to cook about 150gr of dried whole wheat pasta.
And grated some (parmesan) cheese that I put in a dish.
I toasted a handful of pine nuts in a dry pan for a few minutes and left aside.
I then heated a little olive oil and fried the (washed and dried) sage leaves (handful), roughly ripped if they are large. They will be done in just a few minutes. These also went to one side.
In the same pan I browned several bacon rashes (chopped) I lastly added a clove of garlic and a spring onion and cooked briefly and set aside.
Using the same pan I stir fried a whole (medium sized) courgette finely diced. When it was done (still al dente) I added a little white wine, and seasoning. (use lemon juice if you prefer)
I drained the pasta which was now ready and added this to the courgette with nearly all the pine nuts and sage (reserve some for garnishing), the bacon/onion and most of the cheese.
Stir carefully and serve. Sprinkle the remaining cheese, pine nuts and sage leaves and drizzle with virgin olive oil. Mamma mia!

This was a bit haphazard but a rough list of ingredients:
fresh Sage leaves
150gr Pasta
several bacon rashers (or pieces)
parmesan cheese
Olive oil/ utter
pine nuts, about 30gr
1 medium courgette
70-100ml wine oo dash lemon juice/ zest
salt pepper, virgin olive oil

Now I just hope I'm not going to get 'pine nut syndrome' or 'pine mouth' as it's widely referred to- an intriguing taste disorder, occurring 1-3 days after consumption of certain pine nuts and lasting anything up to two weeks! The symptoms are a bitter metal taste in the mouth making practically all other food and drink unpalatable! Even water tastes likes battery acid!
How very odd! It's something I luckily haven't (yet) experienced. Even stranger while some people get this taste disturbance, others do not, even though they have eaten from the same batch of nuts. So perhaps there is a genetic factor involved and I am just one of the lucky ones. I do get a very disagreeable odour when I eat asparagus- but it doesn't stop me eating it!
While 'pine mouth' sounds very unpleasant it doesn't actually seem to be harmful so I will keep risking it!

Apparently the 'culprits' are largely from China so try and stick with ones that you know the origin of- (European nuts are claimed to be fine) although obviously it is difficult when ordering in a restaurant to know the source of the seeds.
It is unclear whether or not toasting/roasting the nuts makes a difference- but I always toast mine.
It can be extremely upsetting for the sufferers since the cause is not immediately apparent and these symptoms can suggest anything from Diabetes, brain tumors and liver failure! But thank goodness for Google: the link to pine nuts can soon be made. (it is so widespread)
But there are still people unaware of the unpleasant side effects of pine nuts and for this reason I am mentioning it on my blog- I would hate to put anyone off their food! I can hardly imagine it myself- fancy all food and drink tasting vile- even chocolate!
Apparently if you are unfortunate to fall victim the best thing to mask the taste is spicy food, another reason to keep checking my blog- coming soon recipe's from my Thai themed evening.